In her Spring/Summer 2011 collection Sandra Backlund mixed openwork crochet, lightweight knitting and metal yarns creating designs that transform and highlight the contours of the human body.
Text by Anna Battista
One of the most important principles of fashion for Elsa Schiaparelli was the focus on the human body. The latter – Schiap claimed – should have been used like a frame in a building, while all the lines, details and asymmetric effects employed by the designer should have displayed a close connection with this frame, because “the more the body is respected, the better the dress acquires vitality”. The human body has always been the starting point for Swedish designer Sandra Backlund (www.sandrabacklund.com). Her Spring/Summer 2011 collection – mainly based on a light palette mixing silvery grey and golden neutral shades with a few splashes of black – moves again from the body, but also focuses on researching innovative materials and techniques.
Breaking down barriers between art, craft and fashion, Backlund used new stitch combinations to achieve a quirky sculpture-like quality in her designs. Further researches in materials and techniques revealed as crucial to her experiments: among the most interesting designs included in the new collections there are pieces made in a metal coated linen fabric and in copper yarn that, giving out a sort of moiré-patterned effect, helped Backlund achieving new silhouettes, embossed motifs and three-dimensional surfaces while retaining the sensuality of second-skin clothes.
Zoot Magazine: What’s the concept behind your Spring/Summer 2011 collection?
Sandra Backlund: My ongoing journey towards a more complete and balanced collection where the handmade special pieces can stand side by side to more edited styles in a natural way. The starting points of my collections are the materials and the techniques since they help me finding the right shapes and silhouettes.
Zoot Magazine: What did you enjoy most while you were coming up with this collection?
Sandra Backlund: The most important point for this collection is the metal yarn: I have been looking for a suitable one for more than six years and now I have finally found one made of 100% copper that is both beautiful and wearable and this was definitely the most exciting landmark about this collection. It was actually quite easy to work with it in both the fine gauge knitwear pieces and the handmade crochet pieces.
Zoot Magazine: Which technique did you use for the top, skirt and dress that look as if they were built by interweaving two bands of fabrics together?
Sandra Backlund: The technique for these pieces is a geometric plissé on a metal coated linen fabric inspired by some squared knitwear pieces from one of my previous collections. As you can see, I let the size of the squares create the shape of the garments.
Zoot Magazine: Which shops will be stocking the collection?
Sandra Backlund: The sales period for the Spring/Summer 2011 collection is not closed yet, but one of the stores we can confirm is Colette in Paris.
Zoot Magazine: Do you feel that your inspirations or influences have changed since you first started working as a fashion designer?
Sandra Backlund: The main inspiration is still the same – the human body and the materials and techniques I work with – but of course I am also inspired by everything that is happening along the way.
Zoot Magazine: You won different awards and achieved great results: what’s your biggest fashion achievement so far?
Sandra Backlund: It is difficult to select only one specific thing, but I think my biggest fashion achievement so far must be the fact that I am still here!
Zoot Magazine: So far, what has been your greatest career challenge?
Sandra Backlund: The constant search in finding a balance between the artistic and commercial aspect of my work.
Zoot Magazine: What do you do when you’re not knitting/working on your collections?
Sandra Backlund: Not too much unfortunately, my life is very much concentrated on my work right now, but I do my best to keep close contact with my loved ones of course!
Zoot Magazine: Would you like to get involved in other fashion related projects or do you have a dream project?
Sandra Backlund: As it is for now I try to stay in the moment and not plan too much for the future, but I am always open to consider new projects if the timing is right.
Photos: Thomas Klementsson / Styling: Naomi Itkes / Hair: Peter Andersson / Make Up: Anya De Tobon / Model: Theres A / Stockholmsgruppen
