Zoot reports
KIEV TRAVEL REPORT: PART II
City of Witches, City of Creed: Sofia Bak explores the unexplained in her native Kyiv
Kyiv is the first city to officially register a poltergeist sighting over 100 years ago. Even the name for the phenomenon didn’t exist back then. The building where this happened used to be situated on the Magdan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) near Khreschatyk where you can now find every designer boutique from Burberry to Chanel.
In place of the Main Post Office was a structure by the address Khreschatyk 22. The report stated that in one of the flats, furniture started moving, plates broke on their own and the sheets were flying around like Aladdin’s magic carpet. The tenants called on the priests who sprinkled the apartment with holy water, said their prayers and left. When no changes were reported, the owners had no other ideas but to call the police. The constables didn’t know what else to do but lock-up the flat and put together an official document describing the sighting on 16th of November 1902. This document remains filed to this day.
Years later, a famous Soviet poet, Korney Chukovsky was strolling through Kyiv when someone told him the story of Kyiv’s poltergeist and soon thereafter the famous “Moidodir” poem was born which tells the tale of a dancing broom, a jumping pillow and flying sheets.
Going back to the giant frogs in Bulgakov’s “The Master and Margarita”, another Kyiv building becomes a must-see. “Budynok z Himerami” (House with Chimaeras) was originally an up-market apartment building built in 1902 by noted architect Vladyslav Horodetskyi. Situated on No. 10, Bankova St. The building derives its name from its ornate decorations depicting various scenes of mythical creatures, exotic animals and hunting. The name itself doesn’t refer to the Chimaera of mythology, but to an architectural style known as chimaera decoration in which animal figures are applied as decorative elements to a building.
This Art Novueau construction features scenes with sunken ships, mermaids and other creatures including no other than giant frogs, which possibly inspired Bulgakov. Throughout the years, the unusual nature of the house has given birth to various legends. According to one, the architect’s daughter had committed suicide by throwing herself into Dnipro river either because of some tragic love affair or a family feud. As a result, the architect lost his mind and built this grey, gloomy castle in her remembrance. Another legend says that he cursed the house when forced to vacate it in 1913 and since then all of the tenants were either unhappy or meet some monetary misfortune and left. The tenancy and ownership of the building definitely changed quite a bit, these days it’s being used as presidential residence.
As for the religious lot, their first port of pilgrimage was always magnificent Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra. On the high hills of the right bank of Dnipro lays this gilded dome, filled with endless attractions some of which are ironically unorthodox. The history of Lavra is closely connected to the Far and Near Caves (Pechery). According to historical chronicles, in 1051 Reverend Anthony settled in one of the Far Caves, which was the date Lavra started its story. He began to attract disciples and soon built an underground temple. However, Anthony was anxious to be alone with his prayers, so in 1057 he went to another slope and dug the Near Caves, where he spent the remaining 40 years. After Reverend Anthony was buried in the Near Caves they became a tomb for his disciples and their followers. Nowadays you can go inside the caves to see the places of worship of these men as well as their coffins some of which feature exposed hands or a face of the mummified dead. Gradually Lavra became the largest monastery on the territory of then Kievan Rus. Now it’s the centre of pilgrimage of Orthodox Christians from all over the world.
Sofiivska (St. Sofia) Cathedral is another world famous historical and architectural monument from the first half of the 11th century. This stunning jade hued house of worship served as the social, political and cultural centre of Kievan Rus. Foreign ambassadors were received here as well as any chronicles that were recorded and the first Russian library was founded in this place during the golden age of Europe. Art, education and culture prospered and Kyiv became one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and Asia. The cathedral was badly damaged during the Tatar yoke and then restored. It was burned many times but this one was successfully reconstructed. It also served as a burial place for Kyiv royalty. The cathedral is famous for its mosaics and frescos by Byzantine masters that date back to the 11th century. Inside St. Sofia you will find more than just antique icons, about 300 graffiti portray political events and historical personalities.
You can’t leave St. Sofia Square without also wondering inside the indigo coloured Mykhaylovskyi (St. Michael) Cathedral on the other side of the square. St. Michael’s is famous for its large golden domes and amazing mosaics and icons, which attracted hundreds of thousands of pilgrims over the years. Its appeal is also due to its luscious greenery of the nearby Volodymyr Mount Park. The hill is filled with flowers, pavilions and brick paths, which were all created by Kyiv gardeners who made the park very popular with the locals.
In serious need of some rest after enjoying St. Sofia and St. Michael’s I head for the roof-top summer terrace of Concorde restaurant. There I discover that the “organic” trend is taking to Kyiv like mermaid to the water.
Most Ukrainians know how to pick herbs and mushrooms for health benefits, women still wash their hair in a nettle decoction and prepare their own herbal tea. Secrets and remedies for these herbs have been passed on through generations and now that organic fashion, beauty and food is hip, Ukrainians see it as merely a come-back. It’s part of their past, the days when words like “pollution” and “cancer” where as confusing as “biodegradable” and “organic” are now. Restaurants like Concorde already serve organic options. Organic Beauty Spa uses only certified organic products from around the world including brands like Simply Organic and Mambino Organics loved by Katy Perry and Jessica Alba. The Spa also has an Organic Café where visitors can continue their pristine indulgence.
At Concorde, the sommelier suggested a wonderful glass of French Bordeaux as I settled on the terrace enjoying the pre-sunset magic hour and listening to the lovable swallows tweeting around me. I was joined by a friend and we ordered a veal tartare with quail’s egg as well as pancakes with red caviar and melted butter. For mains, we opted for the New Zealand lamb chops with sauce Provance and a filet of dorado with fried potatoes. My lamb chops exceeded all expectations in flavour as well as the perfection to which my medium-rare request was fulfilled. As we indulged in our exotic fruit sorbets and sipped our fine wines, beautiful people started arriving dressed in Alaïa and Balenciaga as if just off the Paris Fashion Week runway.
Bewitching young women clicking their Louboutins were seated next to their companions and clutching their Hermes purses pursed their lips in response to whatever their middle-aged boyfriends were saying. We stayed for four hours watching Kyivan high society in their element, smoking cigars, sipping cognac and ordering expensive kalyan, based on milk or champagne instead of water. I wondered if they would ever enjoy the very popular “Sosyska y Tisti” (hotdog in dough) on Khreschatyk, where you will always see a bit of a line filled with locals eager to satisfy their craving for this somewhat greasy but incredibly tempting guilty pleasure.
With its warm nights, Kyievans and visitors can be found hanging around outside at all hours. Kyiv at night, is beautifully illuminated and exudes a more mysterious façade. Its streets project a sense of urban pace and its citizens an aura of fun-loving hospitality. During the hot days, trees shade the alleys and make them very enjoyable for walks. Places like Lover’s Bridge and Maryinskyi Palace built in the rococo renaissance style add a real sense of romance to this already captivating city. From my chic surroundings I went home using the beautiful marble Metro which is something else to experience because with the exception of Moscow, nowhere else in the world has such a majestic public transportation system.
To Be Continued…
Text by Sofia Bak
Photos by Maksim Belousov
