Backstage at LUIS BUCHINHO SS23 at ModaLisboa Oasis
Brave new world
Beauty by Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins
Hair by Vasco Freitas and Maria Lourenço and team with L´Oréal Professionnel Paris
Backstage photos by GD2R / www.gd2r.com using Leica
Words by Guido Avelino
As the day got hotter by the minute, we eagerly waited for the opening act of ModaLisboa day 3 on this sunny Saturday evening. In the thick of the heat backstage, Luís Buchinho let us get a peek at his Spring/Summer 2023 Collection.
The inspiration for the collection was Aldous Huxley’s 1932 novel Brave New World, in which—much like nowadays—“there is almost a mandatory promotion of happiness and well-being, which is something that has a very intrinsic parallel with what we are experiencing,” he told ZOOT, a while before the show started.
Known for his cosmopolitan appeal that complements the feminine form, this collection touches on its main theme with subtlety, approaching the dystopian narrative from an ethereal perspective in a sea of pinks, nudes, corals and grays. The contrasting tones are seen in an array of silk and cotton as well as in sequins and beads. The combination of straight-cut tailored pants and asymmetrical draped dresses came both flat and with pleats, achieving the organic lineage seen throughout the pieces.
When talking about the imminent, Luís comments on our perception of what’s modern. He makes a nod to our societal perception of wellness, dressing his models in classical yet straight-forward ways, incorporating the use of laser cut techniques to finesse the end result seen on the runway.
The vivacity of tones and the proposal of well-being radiates a very great sense of who [this woman] is.
– Luis Buchinho
Collection after collection, we see his interpretation of sensuality and intellect flattering women of all ages, shapes and sizes—that no longer need to prove herself as perfect to the world.
ZOOT contributing photographer Gilles Demarque de Rieux, known as GD2R, was backstage at Luis Buchinho to capture some exclusive moments for our readers, right before the show started.
View the complete collection here at ModaLisboa.