Backstage at LUIS CARVALHO SS23 at ModaLisboa Oasis
Deconstruction of clothing
Beauty by Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins
Hair by Helena Vaz Pereira and team at Griffehairstyle with L´Oréal Professionnel Paris
Backstage photos by Tom Barreto
Words by Guido Avelino
ZOOT had a couple of minutes in between fittings to talk about the motifs that inspired Luís Carvalho’s Spring Summer 2023 Collection. Carvalho’s concept of exploring the contemporary architecture of the big cities from Fall/Winter 2022 was also strongly visible in this collection and Luis told ZOOT:
I was focusing on the shapes and the deconstruction of clothing through a graphic lineage, mixing straight lines and rich graphic patterns.
And so the show started following this premise. Opening with a sleeveless gender-neutral suit paired with tailored shorts, the first section of the show came in hues of light blue, alluding to a sort of breeziness that followed the collection all along. The deconstruction motif was also incorporated in the pieces that followed, present in oversized shirts with slits on their sleeves as well as on asymmetrical tops and some of the baby-doll dresses.
Approaching the ‘Summer in the City’ theme, the colour palette gradually changed from shades of grey until reaching a bright neon orange, toned down in some cases with the usage of stripes in nude, playing with different proportions but still maintaining the same visual language amongst the pieces.
Luis’ designs suit a variety of purposes, allowing his clients to choose if rather a piece should be styled during the day or the night, to the beach or to a gala—with his own interpretation of where the classical coevals the modern.
View the complete collection here at ModaLisboa.