Viviano SS26: Romantic vintage aesthetics forged in chaos

ZOOT: VIVIANO has become a distinctive voice in Tokyo fashion. How would you describe your brand’s essence for someone encountering it for the first time?
Viviano: Thank you for your kind words. If I were to sum it up in one sentence, it would be: “Romantic vintage aesthetics forged in chaos.”

ZOOT: Your work thrives on playful contradictions—fantasy vs. reality, theatricality vs. everyday wear. How did this whimsical ambiguity become central to your vision?
Viviano: Our brand theme is “Chaos in shimmer through the veil of order.” Drawing from cultural contexts, daily life, and reality, we bring together a multitude of colors and fabrics. At first glance, they may seem chaotic, but in fact they are meticulously reorganized with structure and intent. Humanity is forever caught between reality and ideals, contradictions that endlessly fascinate me. My work is essentially about exploring how opposing elements can be reconciled and transformed into compelling design.

ZOOT: You were born in China, grew up in the U.S., and now design in Tokyo. How do these diverse cultural influences shape your aesthetic and creative process?
Viviano: I was born in the United States to a Chinese father and spent my childhood moving between China and the U.S. After university, I came to Japan on my own to study fashion and begin this journey. Growing up, I was fortunate to experience diverse cultures and artistic worlds. When I design, I don’t consciously think about “Eastern” or “Western” influences—it’s something that naturally surfaces rather than something I deliberately insert.

ZOOT: Your work thrives on playful contradictions—fantasy vs. reality, theatricality vs. everyday wear. How did this whimsical ambiguity become central to your vision?
Viviano: Our brand theme is “Chaos in shimmer through the veil of order.” Drawing from cultural contexts, daily life, and reality, we bring together a multitude of colors and fabrics. At first glance, they may seem chaotic, but in fact they are meticulously reorganized with structure and intent. Humanity is forever caught between reality and ideals, contradictions that endlessly fascinate me. My work is essentially about exploring how opposing elements can be reconciled and transformed into compelling design.

ZOOT: Tulle is such a signature of your collections—what continues to draw you to this fabric?
Viviano: While tulle remains one of my favorite materials, it is no longer the defining fabric of the brand. I have always loved gowns—ever since being inspired by McQueen and Galliano—and tulle has traditionally been a key element in them. In our SS2026 season, however, I explored a wider range of couture-like fabrics such as moiré, lace, and fine wool. What intrigues me is not tulle itself, but the challenge of translating the delicacy of haute couture into pieces that uplift daily life through wearability.

ZOOT: Your silhouettes—sculptural yet joyous—find a balance between drama and wearability. How do you achieve that tension?
Viviano: I draft all patterns myself, as this is the most direct way to translate imagination into form. Every design begins with an idea, and the next step is always to determine how to construct it. My knowledge of pattern-making and three-dimensional cutting is my strongest tool in creating this tension.

ZOOT: Your designs often blur gender boundaries. How does fluidity factor into your creative language?
Viviano: I never consciously consider gender when designing. Fashion, to me, is not defined by such boundaries. While we have both menswear and womenswear lines, this division exists mainly to help buyers and audiences navigate the collections. Within menswear, there is softness; within womenswear, strength. They don’t interfere with each other but instead enrich the whole.

ZOOT: Digital culture—from gaming aesthetics to social media—shapes how people imagine identity. Does that influence your design vision?
Viviano: The internet is a powerful tool for sharing our work, though it also leaves less time for reflection. With AI advancing rapidly, I often wonder: if machines can replace so much, what remains of humanity? I believe what endures are creations born from human hands—things machines cannot replicate—just like haute couture of the past.

ZOOT: How does VIVIANO address sustainability and ethical considerations in its design and production processes?
Viviano: Our philosophy is to create timeless garments that can be preserved for the future. In line with this, we oppose mass production and consumption. We use recycled fibers and carefully chosen fabrics so our garments can be enjoyed and maintained for a long time.

ZOOT: Tokyo is all about tradition meets futurism, restraint meets boldness. How does the city influence the world of VIVIANO?
Viviano: Tokyo is a city of contradictions and chaos. Living here has given me fresh perspectives: while it keeps pace with rapid change, it also holds deep respect for tradition and history. This balance has been a profound source of inspiration.