LFW: CHRISTOPHER KANE A/W 2011

In the last few years, quite a few designers have rediscovered crocheting techniques in their collections. Christopher Kane moved from classic crocheted squares using this motif to create geometrical motifs in navy and black on tops and skirts or printed them on leather designs. Inspiration then moved on to simple and basic crepe and cashmere dresses decorated with plastic strips. Trapped inside them, coloured vegetable oil and glycerine liquids in bright orange, red, green and blue moved and bubbled, calling to mind two of the main inspirations for the collection, lava lamps and the plastic pencil cases and bags with liquids encased inside that many of us found absolutely irresistible as kids in the ‘80s. Plastic strips were used to decorate plunging necklines and frame veiled breasts, the liquids encased inside them creating waves of bright colour.

The traditional craft element that opened the collection contrasted with the modern plastic trims, creating a cosy domestic Vs modern plastic dichotomy, though the plastic elements made you wonder why Kane and inseparable sister Tammy didn’t set onto a wider research if they were on the lookout for a material that had never been used before. Indeed, while the liquid plastic effect was fun and used at its best to create alien-like designs with armoured plastic bodices or to give a further touch of colour to dresses covered in iridescent sequins, it was easy to wonder what will happen once these dresses will make the transition from catwalk show to retailer floor and if it will be right to consider high end a product so reminiscent of cheap plastic bags from 25 years ago à la Fiorucci. Yet Kane, who didn’t seem to disappoint the expectations of the fashion media, has learnt from his maestro Gianni Versace how to get away with such tricks and safely walk on a tightrope suspended between the good and the kitsch.

By Anna Battista

See  London Fashion Week coverage of Christopher Kane here.