Young Blood: Off-Schedule Report from London Fashion Week
By Sofia Shershunovich
London fashion scene is known for its controversial fresh faces, after all, this is where young McQueen had models flipping off the photographers and self-proclaimed “fashion butcher” Charlie Le Mindu had naked, blood covered girls walk down the runway in stripper heels. Recently, however, London Fashion Week has been described as “grown up”. We went beyond British Fashion Council catwalk to see for ourselves.
Zeynep Tosun showed season after season of incredible tailoring and complex yet elegant design. For Autumn/Winter 2012 Tosun was inspired by Avedon’s pictures of elephants and sprinkled her collection with silver buttons in the form of tusks as well as elephant prints. But it’s far from that simple. Looks involved delicate appliqué, digital print, knits, wool, leathers, statement accessories and very intricate layering. The Turkish designer comes from a family of textile engineers and seems to be a bit of an illusionist with the needle. Trousers with pieces of button down shirts added to the waist-line, jackets with cleverly incorporated scarves and rope-like belts that slip into cuts that can only be described as architectural. Somehow, all of that, in short, resembles Samurai chic.
Francesca Marotta, a designer in her second season, is a Sicilian who went with “show what you know” and came out with a winner. The blood weeping widows wore fluorescent lucite accessories and bewitched the runway with variation upon variation of lace and black.
Lako Bukia show had alien Amazons in lucite heels resemble Georgian goddesses. A collection called “Broken Mirrors” had just that, in a predominantly intense colour palette of black and silver the collection is embellished with ‘broken glass’ embroidery.
Ultra feminine line Delada showed a rather sexy take on a business suit, presenting fitted jackets and slinky trousers with designer’s own idea of a bow tie. Delada is focused on flattering the figure and revealing just the right amount of flesh, and this season was no different. Evening dresses with stingray details on the open back gave the classic look an injection of sex appeal.
A bold, urban line Math showed colour blocking with materials combined in an unusual context. Flashes of orange peel and coral sat alongside modern neutrals, gunmetal grey and navy. Silk and soft leather shift dresses combined with layers of jersey formed beautiful silhouettes while traditional English tweed was carried in oversized handbags. All of this tied together with Nike trainers.