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Backstage at SANGUE NOVO at MODALISBOA SS24 à la carte — part one

Young blood and new threads: unveiling Portugal's up and coming fashion designers

ModaLisboa highlights young talents in the Portuguese fashion industry with their Sangue Novo contest. This annual competition provides a platform for aspiring designers to showcase their collections to a broader audience. In part one of ZOOT’s Sangue Novo coverage, we showcase the work of five competitors: Afonso Afonso, Ana Maricato, Barbara Atanásio, Çal Pfungst and Isza.

Backstage photography Thomas Probosch

Beauty Antonia Rosa and team using Clarins

Hair Helena Vaz Pereira and team at Griffe Hair Style using L’Orèal Profissional Paris

Supported by Seaside

Sangue Novo is a platform by ModaLisboa designed to identify and promote emerging talents in the field of author fashion. It aims to address the evolving challenges within the fashion industry by fostering young designers with distinct creative identities, strong technical skills, and a special focus on sustainability. The competition emphasizes the importance of sustainable criteria in materials and production processes, acknowledging the new generation’s potential role in addressing the climate crisis. To achieve this, Sangue Novo introduces grand prizes, a fresh panel of judges, and partnerships with textile companies like Calvelex, Fabrics4Fashion, RDD Textiles, and Riopele, who provide the participants who get selected to present six looks each in a runaway show with materials for their collections.

In the initial phase of Sangue Novo, a jury, this year consisting of Miguel Flor, Joana Jorge, João Magalhães, Adriano Batista, Ana Tavares and Olivia Spinelli selected up to ten projects based on creativity, innovation, sustainability, concept, design, color choices, and materials. These selected designers receive mentoring and support to develop their collections, which was eventually unveiled during the October edition of Lisboa Fashion Week. The competition culminates in March 2024, with the announcement of the winners. The awards are designed to empower young designers in three critical areas: innovative and responsible production processes, brand management, and communication, equipping them with the tools necessary to build strong, unique projects capable of making a positive impact.

Afonso Afonso

Metamorfose

Afonso Gonçalves began his journey at António Arroio School in Lisboa, Portugal and recently completed a bachelor’s degree in Fashion and Textile Design at ESART – Higher School of Applied Arts in Castelo Branco. His work thrives on deconstructing and layering images and forms, with inspiration often stemming from rural landscapes and the nocturnal world.

The collection “Metamorfose” presented at Sangue Novo is a interpretation of portguese film director João Pedro Rodrigues, “O Fantasma.” It pays homage to the theme of transformation, featuring textures reminiscent of the film’s harsh landscapes, with sturdy, shiny, and plastic-like materials. Adding a distinctive touch, every piece incorporates zippers for added detail – jackets feature zippers on the shoulders; pants, on the thighs; and select shirts have them on the front. The collection is predominantly black, with a single vibrant accent: a small blue bag, serving as a “necklace”. This clever interplay of textures creates a striking contrast, accentuating broad shoulders and well-defined structures. In addition the collection features bags crafted through upcycling and recycling, echoing the theme of transformation.

Bárbara Atanásio — finalist

ETÉREA VIAGEM: Somewhere only we know

Bárbara Atanásio has a background in textiles and fashion design, focusing on upcycling, deconstruction, and a touch of humor. She completed her education at António Arroio School in 2016 and later at Modatex Lisboa in 2023. Her journey includes internships with renowned designers like Valentim Quaresma and Marques‘Almeida, and she has actively participated in Mercado P’la Arte since 2022, showcasing her commitment to innovative and sustainable fashion.

Bárbara ‘s “ETÉREA VIAGEM: Somewhere only we know” collection embarks on a distinctive exploration of daily life, drawing inspiration from uncertain memories and an unreal existence. It embraces contemporary styling influenced by the Japanese street style Fruits Magazine and the reimagining of fashion and materials, including second-hand style from Harajuku and the eclecticism of the nineties. The collection features a vibrant palette with a dominant presence of green and blue shades, balanced by contrasting luminosities and vibrant orange accents.

Ana Maricato

Rhythms Cycle:1

Ana Maricato, a Fashion Design graduate from Modatex in Lisboa, specializes in creating intimate narratives centered around the primary study of color. Her “Rhythms Cycle:1” collection explores the idea that life follows a rhythmic cycle, embracing birth, the conclusion of life, and rebirth. Inspired by personal family photos and rediscovered ideas, the collection breathes new life into these concepts through a vivid and light-hearted lens. Utilizing upcycling, it turns leftover materials into textiles, focusing on reducing material waste.

The collection masterfully employs vibrant and playful colors in contrast to the backdrop of black, showcasing a keen sense of sensuality and precision. With an emphasis on eco-consciousness, the designs capture the essence of transformation and renewal. Jewelry and accessories were made with nails, metal rings, bolts and nuts, as well as other small tools such as keys for the construction of these pieces. The make-up and hair design complements the collection with a minimalistic approach, allowing the vibrant colors and intricate cuts to stand out, forming a harmonious visual narrative.

Joana Morais at Elite Lisbon wearing ANA MARIACATO.

Çal Pfungst — finalist

“A Sandes de Faraday”

Çal Pfungst, an artist based in Portugal, holds degrees in Theatre from ESMAE and Fashion Design from Modatex, both in Porto. Their creative approach is characterized by experimentation and a deconstructive method, seeking new possibilities and boundaries in clothing design.

In the collection “A Sandes de Faraday”, Çal explores a unique concept, designing clothing that wraps individuals much like a sandwich. This collection features an eclectic range of items, from swords and bags filled with stars to weapons, cutlery, and robots. Presented in a silver-contaminated setting that symbolizes an arrival in an “unknown land,” the garments serve a dual purpose. The collection showcases vibrant colors and material contrasts, employing intricate, patterned designs that create a distinct connection between the pieces and the narrative. The interplay of metallic and dark elements infuses the collection with a youthful and playful essence, and Çal Pfungst stands out as an eagerly anticipated finalist in Sangue Novo.

Isza — finalist

“Dust in My Hand”

Isza, also known as Ana Luísa Marinho, began her journey as an artist using drawing and art to express herself from a young age. With a deep fascination for the immediate and impactful nature of fashion, she pursued a career in the field by enrolling in the Fashion Design program at Modatex in Porto, which she completed in 2023.

Isza’s “Dust in My Hand” collection showcases her ability to blend distinct elements in fashion. Drawing inspiration from everyday life and the ceaseless evolution of technology, this collection bridges these divergent worlds through a palette of neutral and darker tones. It incorporates plasticized and wet textures, intricate leather cutouts, and knit garments reminiscent of ancient chainmail. Isza’s innovative approach beautifully balances the traditions of fashion with a modern touch.