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Backstage at BEHEN FW24/25 at MODALISBOA For Good

The core of the brand

 

Béhen’s FW24/25 collection titled « I Don’t Want You », marks the brand’s four-year anniversary. Four years of shaping its identity and vision. With nothing left to prove, Béhen continues to celebrate the beauty of Portuguese craftsmanship.

 

Photography  Isabella Glock

Beauty Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins

Hair Claudio Pacheco and team with L’Oréal Professional Paris

Bread accessories by Europastry

Words Charlie Chaquet

 

The fashion brand Béhen was founded by designer Joana Duarte, she is is originally from the province of Ribatejo in Portugal. During her studies, she developped her interest in ethical production and collaboration with artisan communities in fashion which led her to work in Jaipur, India, where she was able to expand her skills in traditional techniques. When she came back to Portugal, she decided to use her knowledge to support her homeland and protect Portuguese heritage and craftsmanship, so she created Béhen.

Béhen works with artisans all over Portugal, from textiles to tinwork. By that, they are trying to bring attention on local and traditional handcraft, while offering modern designs. They are also using conscious and ethically sourced materials, for example by upcycling vintage and traditional textiles, often incorporating Portuguese embroidery and tapestries into its unique, handmade garments. Béhen draws inspiration from folklore, heritage, and cultural traditions, while addressing environmental issues through a circular fashion model, making it a standout in the world of slow fashion and eco-conscious luxury.

 

 

In her collection I DON’T WANT YOU, we find upcycled traditional woven blankets transformed into mini skirts or mini bags, traditional embroidery with beautiful openwork on white shirts or pants, heart-shaped knitwork on thigh-high socks, ribbon-like redwork embroidery on raw denim, and entire outfits crafted solely in cross-stitch.

The collection is both feminine and delicate, yet raw at the same time. The fabrics range from heavy and thick to light and fluid, showcasing this duality. This is the essence of Béhen: a creative ambivalence that once again reveals the many facets of Portuguese craftsmanship.

 

Joana Duarte about fabrics…

Definitely a favorite, as it makes me think about my hometown and the blankets on balconies during festivities.

 

 

 

 

There are also bags and accessories in the shape of a loaf of bread, and you’re probably wondering why? What does this have to do with Portuguese craftsmanship? Actually, we already saw these eccentric accessories in the last collection “The God of Small Things” AW23. It’s a homage from the designer to her grandparents, now the bread accessories are made by her mother with the help of Europastry.

 

My grandparents from my dad’s side always used to bake bread, and I started to research around it’s symbolism.

These mini bags have in fact a lot to say, not only are super cute and represent a very feminine universe same as embroidery and weaving

—  Joana Duarte, Béhen

 

 

 

Upcycled traditional woven blankets outfits.

 

 

As with all Béhen´s collections, the title of I DON´T WANT YOU is poetry itself. Over the previous seasons, we saw  « FW 22/23 Goodbye, until my return », « SS22 Freedom is a woman’s name » or « FW21/22 I want you so bad ». We can’t wait to see what’s in store for us with the new Spring/Summer 2025 “És Má”, “You’re Bad” …

 

I Don’t Want You is, above all, a statement of creative and individual freedom. I Don’t Want You because I do, and because I don’t. Because I used to, because I can. 

—  Béhen about her collection, Moda Lisboa

 

Cross stitching and upcycled hand-crocheted cotton.

 

Béhen continues to evolve, blending tradition and modernity with a strong commitment to sustainability. Joana Duarte’s passion for Portuguese craftsmanship and ethical production is evident in every collection, which celebrates both the richness of her cultural heritage and her approach to design.

The brand’s latest collection, with its thoughtful details and poetic storytelling, is bringing together femininity and cultural homage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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To boot…

 

BÉHEN
@behen.studio
www.behenstudio.com

View the complete AW24/25 collection of Behen here on ModaLisboa

View more of Behen here on ZOOT.

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